We woke early again but didn't leave the apartment until after 9. It was another sunny day, with a nip in the air to start with. The internet had suggested that a good place to have breakfast in the North End is Theo's, a Brazilian restaurant which is opposite the Old North End Church on Salem Street. When we got there, all the tables were full but after waiting a few minutes, a couple invited us to share their table. They were obviously well-heeled but very friendly and happy to chat. They had come across town for breakfast to escape the ten-year-old daughter and her grandfather. The child goes to a nearby private Catholic elementary school, the same as was attended by Rose Kennedy.
I had my only experience of pancakes -three, the size of dinner plates. Even though I had the table maple syrup pointed out to me, I found them rather dry, but it was fun.
Back onto the street, we rejoined the Freedom Trail, this time going north, crossing the Charles River to go to the USS Constitution. This is the oldest commissioned naval sailing ship still afloat and it still belongs to the Navy. This meant going through security but not being charged to go aboard. We had explanations from serving sailors in an old but valid uniform.
On and up to the Bunker Hill Monument, through interesting and pretty, old streets. The 294 steps up it were a bit too far so we walked back to the pier to catch the commuter ferry past the waterfront with the sun still shining and the river sparkling. A very good idea.
At the Long Pier, we walked to the Custom House, which I had read about and which our breakfast companions told us was a great place from which to see the city. It's now a Marriott hotel, but they allow people up for a fee which goes to the mayor's charities. We were too early, so went back to a now packed Quincy Market to buy and eat a sandwich in the sunshine and to see some of the street entertainment.
At the Custom House, the first lift took us to floor 19 and the second to floor 26. The observation deck is very close to the top and is outside. We spent a while there looking down on all four sides to the city and beyond, which was lovely.
There was still a lot if afternoon left, so we made our way back along the Trail through the Common and Public Garden before a very long walk down Newbury Street to find the purveyor of cookie cutters. They didn't have the one to make little gingerbread houses, but I bought a few others instead.
As we were flagging by now, we stopped at a Ben and Jerry's for a refresher.
Ian was determined to keep walking back, instead of taking the T. There were so many people out enjoying the sunshine and the atmosphere was great.
Even though it was Sunday, Hanover Street was still buzzing as it got dark. We thought about eating at the Bricco restaurant, but it was very expensive. The girl on the desk suggested we go to a "sister" restaurant round the corner, where the food was more rustic. We didn't have to wait and were shown to a table in a semi-permanent structure covering the wide alley next to the restaurant. With the noise of the customers, and the general ambiance of the place, we both began to feel as if Congleton was a million miles away.
Although I had wanted to try cannoli, we were too full. We did walk along to Mike's to find that, at 7:30 on a Sunday evening, it was still packed with people buying their pastries.
Back to the apartment where I was asleep by 8:30. We had walked miles.
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